The article below was first published in the Greymouth Camera Club’s monthly newsletter and was written at the Newsletter Editor’s request. It is an account of our trip from beginning to end.

The Planning

I think it’s safe to say that I enjoy planning big trips almost as much as I enjoy taking them.

Just over two years ago, during a conversation about photography and the places we would love to visit, Helen, a photographer friend, told me her dream destination was Africa so she could photograph leopards. Her husband had no interest in going and had suggested she find another travel buddy. I immediately put my hand up.

It should be noted that Helen proudly refers to herself as the “Leopard Lady”. Her personalised number plate, her wardrobe, and anyone who has visited her home all make it clear why – leopards are her passion. This trip had been at the very top of her bucket list for years, making it especially meaningful.

As for me, my own dream trip had been cancelled by COVID, and by the time travel resumed the opportunity had disappeared. Having never travelled beyond Australia, I was simply excited by the prospect of visiting somewhere completely different, with photographic opportunities I could never find in New Zealand or Australia.

Knowing a trip to Africa wouldn’t be cheap, we agreed to spend two years saving and aimed for 2026. At the time, work was relatively quiet, giving me plenty of opportunity to research. My first focus was Kenya’s Masai Mara, but that quickly changed after I saw photographs of long queues of safari vehicles lined up at wildlife sightings. Spending precious time waiting behind dozens of other vehicles wasn’t my idea of the perfect photographic safari.

I began looking further afield and investigated organised tours. The more I researched, the more disillusioned I became. Many operators weren’t even based in Africa, and it felt as though we’d be paying someone else to organise the trip they wanted to run, rather than the experience we wanted. I wanted the best value for our money without compromising on comfort.

Camping was never going to suit me. Because of ongoing health issues, I need a comfortable bed and an ensuite bathroom to make a trip like this enjoyable. Fortunately, Helen was more than happy for me to take charge of the planning so we could build an itinerary that worked for both of us.

Picking The Right Tour Company

Not long afterwards I discovered Panthera Photo Safaris, a relatively new business run by South African couple Lance and Kirstin Van de Vyver. Both were qualified safari guides as well as keen photographers, which immediately appealed to me.

Knowing that many members of PSNZ had travelled to South Africa, I asked in the Facebook group whether anyone had experience with Panthera. The responses were overwhelmingly positive, and I was amused to learn that Lance had grown up in Levin, New Zealand.

Over the following weeks I exchanged numerous emails with Lance, discussing what they could offer. Their website featured several standard safaris along with photography workshops designed for wildlife photographers. Lance pointed out that booking onto one of the workshops was actually cheaper than joining a regular safari, and we weren’t obliged to participate in the tuition if we preferred not to.

That suited us perfectly.

We chose a workshop that combined two very different locations, offering opportunities to photograph birds, leopards and a wide variety of other wildlife. Initially, the arrangement was simple: we would make our own way to the first lodge, Panthera would transfer us to the second location, and after that we were on our own. I have to admit, that prospect made me a little nervous. I’d never travelled anywhere beyond Australia, let alone navigated airports and cities in a country with a reputation, fairly or unfairly, for being challenging for tourists.

Fortunately, by the time we confirmed our booking there were four of us travelling together, and the package had evolved. Airport transfers were now included at both ends of the safari, meaning all we had to organise were our flights and one overnight stay in Johannesburg each way.

By the time we finally arrived in South Africa, Lance and Kirstin had started describing themselves as travel agents and safari guides.

I’d like to think we had something to do with that.

The Locations

Our itinerary included two very different safari experiences, each offering its own photographic opportunities.

The first stop was Kambaku River Lodge, about 15 minutes from the Malelane Gate of Kruger National Park. Set alongside the Crocodile River, the lodge featured an underground photographic hide that we would have exclusive use of throughout our stay. This was the main attraction for this part of the trip, giving us the chance to photograph wildlife at eye level as animals came to drink.

Lance accompanied us as our guide, helping us make the most of every photographic opportunity. While the hide was our primary focus, we also had the option of heading into Kruger National Park on guided safari drives whenever we wished.

Our second destination was Elephant Plains Safari Lodge, about a four-hour drive away in the Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve. This was where we hoped to fulfil Helen’s dream of photographing leopards.

One of the major advantages of Sabi Sands is that, unlike the public roads in Kruger, game viewing is carefully managed. A maximum of three vehicles is permitted at any wildlife sighting, reduced to two if cubs are present and only one when the cubs are very young. Better still, safari vehicles are allowed to leave the roads when necessary, giving guides the freedom to position vehicles for the best possible viewing and photography. Sabi Sands has earned an international reputation for its big cat sightings, particularly its leopards, so our expectations were understandably high.

The Flights

Because of ongoing health issues, flying Business Class wasn’t a luxury, it was a necessity. Booking our flights required almost as much research as planning the safari itself.

At the time of booking, I was taking medication that wasn’t permitted in some countries, even for passengers simply transiting through the airport. Rather than risk any problems, I chose a route to Johannesburg via Singapore. There were other options available, but none offered the peace of mind or comfort I needed for such a long journey.

Helen and Kelly, another photographer who joined us, flew Economy, while my husband and I travelled in Business Class. Although it would have been nice to share the journey together, the important thing was that we all arrived safely and comfortably.

As it turned out, I was no longer taking that medication by the time we travelled. However, the conflict involving Iran resulted in the closure of airspace on several routes we might otherwise have used. In the end, choosing to fly via Singapore proved to be an excellent decision for more than one reason.

Tipping Culture

Coming from New Zealand, where tipping is appreciated but rarely expected, South Africa took a little getting used to. Apart from the occasional tip jar in a café or bar, tipping simply isn’t part of our everyday culture.

That changed the moment we arrived in Johannesburg. We were immediately approached by people offering to “help” us, for a tip, of course.

Throughout the trip, tipping was an accepted part of the tourism industry. Lodge staff, safari guides and others connected with our stay all relied on gratuities to some extent. When we asked how much was appropriate, the standard response was, “It must come from your heart.”

Fortunately, Lance gave us some practical guidelines at the start of the safari, and we followed those throughout the trip. We politely declined assistance when we didn’t need it but were happy to tip when help was genuinely provided. It’s also worth remembering that gratuities can add a significant amount to the overall cost of a safari, so they’re something future travellers should include in their budget.

Kambaku River Lodge

We arrived at Kambaku in time for a late lunch before making our way to the underground hide for our first photography session.

It was a quiet introduction. Apart from a handful of birds, very little visited the waterhole. At one point I found myself photographing ants simply to keep busy. I’d been imagining close encounters with elephants, colourful birds and whatever else might wander down to drink, but nature had other ideas.

The reason soon became clear. Heavy, unseasonal rain had caused major flooding in Kruger National Park before our arrival, leaving the Crocodile River running much higher than normal. With water readily available throughout the area, there was little reason for wildlife to visit the hide.

After a couple of slow sessions, cabin fever started to creep in, so we decided to book some safari drives into Kruger instead. Thankfully, the safari vehicle had a roof because the rain continued throughout our stay. One night I was woken by a spectacular thunderstorm, complete with brilliant lightning, and by morning the river had risen even further.

The recent flooding had also left parts of the park recovering, with several road closures still in place. Although we enjoyed some good wildlife sightings, our guides explained that the conditions were highly unusual. At that time of year, the landscape should have been dry and brown, making wildlife much easier to spot. Instead, everything was lush, green and thriving after the unexpected rain.

We spent four nights at Kambaku. The accommodation was luxurious, the food was excellent and the staff couldn’t have been more welcoming. Unfortunately, no one can control the weather, and the conditions simply weren’t ideal for the style of wildlife photography we had hoped to experience.

The Transfer

The drive from Kambaku to Elephant Plains turned out to be an experience in its own right.

It began on well-maintained highways, passing plantations and picturesque countryside, but the journey soon changed. Because of the recent flooding, several roads were still closed, forcing us onto a much less direct route. In hindsight, I’m glad it did.

As we travelled further from the main centres, we saw a very different side of South Africa. Smooth highways gave way to potholed roads that felt more like a roller coaster, with our driver often steering onto the verge to avoid the worst of the damage. Apartment buildings gradually disappeared, replaced by small settlements of modest homes, many of them only partially completed.

Our driver explained that people often build their homes as money becomes available. A family might complete just one room and live in it while saving to build the next. Many of the finished rooms were topped with simple sheets of corrugated iron, held in place with a few concrete blocks.

What struck me most, however, was the contrast. Almost every partially completed house had a satellite dish, and nearly everyone we saw seemed to have a mobile phone. It wasn’t the way most of us in New Zealand live, yet the people we passed appeared happy and simply getting on with life.

That journey gave me a broader perspective on the world. It was a reminder that people can live very differently from us yet still find contentment in what they have.

Elephant Plains Safari Lodge

Our second destination was Elephant Plains Safari Lodge, located within the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, part of the Greater Kruger National Park. Although Sabi Sands is a private reserve, there are no fences separating it from Kruger, allowing wildlife to roam freely between the two areas.

From the moment we arrived, it was clear this was going to be something special.

Our accommodation consisted of spacious luxury rondavels, each with its own ensuite, and just a short stroll from the main lodge, which housed the restaurant, bar and gift shop. It was an ideal base for the next four nights, during which we would head out on eight safari drives in search of the incredible wildlife Sabi Sands is famous for.

Little did we know, those drives were about to exceed every expectation we had brought with us.

Day One

After our long drive, we were welcomed with a refreshing drink before being shown to our rondavels to freshen up. A late lunch followed, delayed slightly by the flood detours, but we were soon unpacking our camera gear and heading out on our first safari drive.

From the outset it was obvious how well the guides worked together. They were in constant radio contact, sharing information and following fresh tracks in the hope of locating lions or leopards. Although the big cats remained elusive that afternoon, we saw plenty of other wildlife and birds, making it an exciting introduction to Sabi Sands.

The message was clear, nothing in the bush is guaranteed. Every sighting has to be earned.

Day Two

The following morning, our guide told us we were in for something special.

After missing out on leopards the previous day, Helen wasn’t allowing herself to get too excited. She had travelled all this way to photograph leopards, and while she remained hopeful, she wasn’t prepared to be disappointed again.

Then we found them.

Tiyani, a beautiful female leopard, was with her young daughter, Mahlowasi, whose name means “blue eyes”. As soon as Helen saw them, the tears started. For the next half hour she happily blubbered while trying to photograph through the emotion. Seeing her lifelong dream unfold right in front of her was almost as memorable as the sighting itself.

The two leopards spent much of the morning play-fighting only metres from our vehicle. It looked playful, but we were told Tiyani was teaching her daughter the skills she would soon need to survive on her own. Her male cub had already dispersed, and it wouldn’t be long before Mahlowasi would also be forced to leave her mother’s territory.

It was an unforgettable experience and exactly the sort of wildlife encounter we had travelled halfway around the world to witness.

Eventually we left the leopards, stopping to photograph elephants and a variety of birds before returning to the lodge for breakfast and, later, lunch.

As part of our photography workshop, Lance spent the afternoon demonstrating his image processing workflow. Kelly and I took full advantage of the opportunity. I picked up a few new processing techniques, but I was equally impressed by how quickly he could assess hundreds of images, deciding what to keep and what to cull. It was a valuable lesson in itself.

Our afternoon drive began with monkeys entertaining us around the lodge car park before we encountered a huge herd of elephants just metres from the entrance. There were calves of every size, from playful youngsters to one tiny newborn estimated to be only a day old. It was so small that the surrounding grass was taller than it was. Watching these gentle giants from such close range was both exhilarating and slightly intimidating.

Our next stop was a group of rhinos. Unfortunately, a camera malfunction meant I lost almost all of the photographs I had taken of them. It was frustrating, but there wasn’t much I could do except move on and hope another opportunity would present itself later in the trip.

It was also around this time that our guide explained just how unusual the conditions were. At that time of year the bush should have been dry and brown, making wildlife much easier to spot. Instead, the recent unseasonal rain had left the grass long and green, with dense foliage providing plenty of cover for the animals. While the landscape looked beautiful, it certainly made wildlife photography more challenging.

Day Three

We started the morning expecting something different, and Sabi Sands certainly delivered.

Our first sighting was two lionesses with their cubs. They had recently brought down an impala and were now resting with full bellies while a few of the cubs were still happily chewing on the remaining bones. It was another of those moments where the cameras hardly stopped. Between us we captured thousands of images, knowing full well there would be a serious culling session once we got home.

Not far away, a group of spotted hyenas waited patiently for their opportunity. Whether they were hoping to steal what remained of the kill or simply clean up after the lions moved on, they weren’t going anywhere in a hurry.

Eventually the shutters slowed down and we continued our search. It wasn’t long before another leopard appeared, this time Makomsava, whose name means “Mother Earth”. She strolled confidently along the road, pausing occasionally to scent-mark her territory, completely indifferent to our presence. We followed her for a while before leaving her to continue her morning patrol.

The rest of the drive produced a wonderful variety of wildlife. We spent time photographing zebras, an adult giraffe with her youngster, and a troop of baboons before returning to the lodge for lunch and the now familiar routine of downloading memory cards.

Our afternoon drive was just as rewarding. Wildebeest, zebras, impalas, greater kudus, monitor lizards, warthogs, squirrels and buffalo all made appearances as we worked our way through the reserve.

As dusk approached, we stopped to photograph a chameleon when the radio suddenly crackled into life.

The lions were still nearby.

We headed back to the sighting, where another safari vehicle from a neighbouring lodge was already watching them. Although I took plenty more photographs of the lions, they weren’t dramatically different from those I’d captured earlier in the day. Instead, I found myself drawn to the hyenas. In the darkness they looked far more intimidating, and the images had a completely different feel.

Eventually our guide announced it was time to head back before dinner became very late. The other vehicle had just left, so we drove around it to rejoin the track. It quickly became obvious they weren’t making much progress, and our driver stopped to investigate.

They were hopelessly bogged.

The recent rain had left the ground deceptively soft, and venturing off-road had landed them firmly in deep mud. A tow rope was attached between the two vehicles, but despite several attempts, they refused to budge. Next came tree branches under the wheels to improve traction. Still nothing.

The passengers were then asked to climb out to reduce the weight. Even that didn’t work.

Only then did everyone discover that the vehicle was sitting on top of a tree trunk as well as being stuck in the mud.

At this point it’s worth mentioning that the lions were still close by. Fortunately, they had wandered a little further away from all the commotion. The hyenas, however, were far more interested in what was happening and lingered nearby watching the unfolding drama. Unsurprisingly, the stranded passengers standing beside the road were looking more than a little uneasy.

Eventually our driver radioed the lodge for a tractor. Once it arrived, the stranded vehicle was pulled free within minutes. We waited until they were safely moving again before heading back ourselves.

Dinner was definitely late that evening, but thankfully the kitchen had kept it warm for us.

After a day that included lions, hyenas, a leopard, countless other wildlife sightings and an unexpected vehicle recovery in the middle of the African bush, none of us had any trouble finding stories to tell over our meal.

Day Four

Our fourth morning began with more zebras and several bird species we hadn’t photographed before. Then came another leopard.

This time it was a stocky male, about six years old. I can’t remember his name, but he was noticeably more muscular than the females we had seen. He wandered through the bush, stopping frequently to sniff the ground and nearby vegetation. Our guide suspected he had picked up the scent of one of the females, or perhaps one of their recent kills. We watched him for a while before continuing our drive.

Not long afterwards we came across another group of rhinos, giving me the chance to replace the photographs I’d lost to my camera malfunction the previous day. They spent most of their time resting, but I was just happy to finally capture some images.

The morning finished with an elephant strolling along the road towards us, providing one of my favourite photographs of the entire trip.

By lunchtime our leopard tally had reached four, already well beyond anything we had expected before arriving in Africa.

As we climbed back into the safari vehicle that afternoon, our guide smiled and told us to hold on because he had something special planned. Thanks to our helping another lodge recover their bogged vehicle the previous evening, we’d been offered priority access to a sighting on a neighbouring property.

It turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip.

Waiting for us was Xidulu and her two four-month-old cubs. Xidulu had recently made a kill and they were now relaxing with full bellies, giving us the opportunity to capture some wonderfully intimate photographs. The cubs were endlessly entertaining, and from our close vantage point we were able to photograph expressions and behaviour that would have been impossible from any further away. Hidden amongst the long grass, they would have disappeared completely.

Because the cubs were still so young, only one safari vehicle was allowed at the sighting at any one time. The carefully managed viewing helps the cubs become accustomed to vehicles without overwhelming them. When our allotted time was over, we reluctantly moved aside so the next vehicle could enjoy the same privilege.

The afternoon continued with giraffes and zebras before another unforgettable moment unfolded.

As the sun began to set, our guide spotted movement on a nearby mound. There, silhouetted against the golden sky, stood Tiyani. Backlit by the setting sun, she created one of the most striking photographic opportunities of the entire safari. Another of my favourite images came from that brief encounter.

She was calling for Mahlowasi, whom she had left hidden while she hunted.

Although we never witnessed the kill itself, it wasn’t long before we spotted the same male leopard from earlier in the day. He had obviously heard Tiyani’s calls as well and was making his way towards the area, perhaps hoping to steal a meal. We left nature to take its course and quietly moved on.

With Xidulu and her two cubs added to the tally, we had now photographed seven individual leopards, far beyond anything we had dared hope for before leaving New Zealand.

On the drive back to the lodge, we stopped briefly to photograph a couple of chameleons, a fitting way to end another extraordinary day.

Day Five

Our final morning arrived far too quickly.

Before sunrise we finished packing, knowing we had just enough time for one last safari drive and breakfast before our transfer collected us at 10.30 am.

As always, we had no idea what the bush had in store for us.

We soon found the lions again, but this time the two lionesses and their cubs had been joined by two males, the fathers of the cubs. From what our guides could see, one of the females appeared to be coming into season, giving us yet another fascinating glimpse into their behaviour and some unique photographic opportunities.

Later, while photographing birds, the radio crackled once more.

Our guide looked back with a grin.

“Hang on!”

The vehicle accelerated, and I watched the speedometer climb to 60 km/h, silently congratulating myself for having packed my camera safely away.

When we arrived, the excitement became obvious.

A pack of African wild dogs.

Until then we hadn’t seen any and had almost given up hope. We spent around ten minutes watching and photographing them before making way for another safari vehicle. Later we learned the next group only saw the dogs for about a minute before they disappeared into thick bush.

We realised just how lucky we had been.

On the drive back to the lodge, we were treated to one final display as two male impalas locked horns in a territorial battle. The background wasn’t ideal for photography, but watching the contest unfold was a memorable way to finish our last game drive.

Homeward Bound

After breakfast we checked out and began the two-day journey home.

Looking back, our safari had followed an unexpected pattern. It started a little slower than we’d imagined, largely because of the unseasonal weather, but it finished on an incredible high. By the end of the trip we had photographed seven individual leopards, lions, rhinos, elephants, wild dogs and an astonishing variety of other wildlife, far more than we had ever expected.

Would I do it again?

Absolutely.

Would I return to Kambaku River Lodge?

Probably not – not because there was anything wrong with the lodge. The accommodation, food and hospitality were all excellent. We were simply unlucky with the weather, and the photographic opportunities weren’t what we had hoped for during our stay.

Would I return to Elephant Plains?

Without hesitation.

In fact, next time I’d stay longer than four nights. I’d also approach my photography differently. Instead of trying to capture as many images as possible, I’d spend more time thinking about the photograph I wanted to create before pressing the shutter.

For a first safari, though, it couldn’t have been a better introduction.

Nothing quite prepares you for seeing wild animals living freely in their natural environment. It’s the anticipation, the unpredictability and those unforgettable moments when everything comes together that make an African safari so special.

And yes… I’d go back in a heartbeat.

First Safari Experiences at Kambaku River Lodge and Kruger National Park
Xidulu and Her Cubs at Sabi Sands
Elephants of Sabi Sands: Gentle Giants of the African Bush
Lion Cubs Feeding on an Impala Kill in Sabi Sands
Wild Dogs of Sabi Sands: A Perfect Final Safari Sighting
Zebras of Sabi Sands – The Quiet Stars of Safari
Birds of Kambaku River Lodge Hide
Birds of Kruger National Park
Birds of Sabi Sands – Colourful Birdlife on Safari
Greater Kudu and Blue Wildebeest in Sabi Sands
Spotted Hyenas of Sabi Sands